In Eastern Cape Xhosa communities, boys between the age of 18 and 23 undergo circumcision as part of a manhood initiation ritual. After initiates return home from initiation school, they are guided through a six-month process where their elders teach them manhood protocol. Xhosa initiates are traditionally called amakrwala during this process.
Before amakrwala attend circumcision school, all their old clothes are given away, which symbolises the end of boyhood. Their parents have to buy them new clothing, including high-quality men’s knitwear. This is where Ngxokolo saw a gap in the market.
Amakrwala buy imported knitwear brands, but he says these bear no resemblance to Xhosa traditions. For this reason, Ngxokolo wanted to develop knitwear using only traditional Xhosa designs and colours.
He says that amakrwala are influenced by urban, western styles and it was important to create contemporary garments that are still in keeping with Xhosa culture.
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